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WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN CALICO AND CANVAS?

and Other Common Cotton Questions.

Calico and canvas

Cotton is cotton. But it’s also brushed and twill, and denim and calico. When cotton fibre is woven into fabric it is used to make everything from clothes and accessories to bedding and towels. Such versatility means that there are many names for the cotton end product. In the world of promotional products, cotton is found in bags, apparel, uniforms, hats, face masks and a lot more. We hear words like herringbone, chambray, fleece and jersey. But what do they mean and what is the difference between calico and canvas? We’ve got the answers below.

Firstly, what is the difference between Calico and Canvas?

The confusion stems from the finish! Both calico and canvas are commonly produced undyed. Their natural look makes both calico and canvas popular, eco-friendly material for totes and shopping bags. But the difference between calico and canvas, though, is in the weight of the thread and the density of the weave.

Calico is light, loosely woven cotton fabric. It is used in fashion for making test garments before moving onto the more expensive material. Calico’s raw look and light weight make it a popular fabric for carry bags and homewares.

Canvas, on the other hand, is heavier than calico and more tightly woven. A thicker and tighter weave makes canvas more durable and structured. Canvas products include backpacks and tote bags, sneakers, aprons, workwear and upholstery. Outside, waterproofed canvas is seen in tents, sails and tarpaulins.

You can read about cotton bags in our article, here.

What’s the difference between Brushed Cotton and Twill?

Brushed cotton is just as its name describes. Once the cotton is woven it is brushed on one or both sides as a finishing touch. Brushing gives the fabric a soft and sometimes fluffy texture that works as an insulator. Brushed cotton is perfect, then, for bedding, pyjamas and soft tees. Flannel, for example, is a medium weight cotton brushed on both sides.

Twill refers to the way the cotton is woven rather than finished. Twill is a sturdy and durable weave, mostly seen in chinos and denim, but it can be used in many ways. Depending on the weight of the thread, a twill’s signature diagonal ribbing can be obvious or subtle.

Isn’t Chambray just a lighter Denim?

Cotton chambray is often paired with denim in fashion because they’re both most commonly blue. Chambray differs from denim, though, by its weight and weave. It is plain woven with thin white and blue yarn. This makes the multi-coloured fabric light and crisp.

Denim is made in a twill weave with medium to heavy weight yarn. Fashion denim is often woven with elastane to make it more wearable, but this also reduces its durability.

What are Herringbone and Poplin?

Herringbone and Poplin are common terms seen in cotton dress shirts and uniform apparel. Poplin is another plain weave fabric. What sets it apart is its ultrafine horizontal ribbing that gives the fabric a sheen. Suit trousers can be poplin when made from a medium weight yarn.

Herringbone is a pattern made by alternating the direction of a twill weave throughout the fabric. Herringbone fabric can vary from light to heavy. Light herringbone is found in dress shirts, while medium to heavy herringbone is used for items from jackets and heavy coats to upholstery.

What exactly is Jersey Cotton?

Jersey is made from cotton that has been knitted rather than woven. This makes it soft to touch and gives the fabric more stretch. Cotton hoodies and tracksuits are made from jersey cotton with a brushed fleece on one side.

What does Rib Knit mean?

A very descriptive name, rib knit cotton is a knitted fabric where the loops appear alternating on the front and back of the fabric, giving it a ribbed look. The ribs make the fabric super stretchy without the use of elastane or Lycra (though many still use them for stretch throughout the garment). Hoodies and jumpers will have rib knitted sleeve cuffs and waistbands. Fitted tops and dresses will be rib knitted throughout.

Cotton is a functional, versatile and improving resource. It is used around the world in fashion, furniture, homewares, camping gear, paper and agriculture industries. Australian cotton growers are evolving their tools and techniques to reduce the amount of water they use, and their carbon emissions. Their efforts are creating the same quality product with a smaller carbon footprint.

Australian cotton is valuable to so many industries, including promotional products – where one 227kg bale of cotton can produce 1,200 tees, or 4,300 pairs of socks. With so much to be made from cotton, we hope you now have the vocabulary to find exactly what you’re looking for.

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