The confusion stems from the finish! Both calico and canvas are commonly produced undyed. Their natural look makes both calico and canvas popular, eco-friendly material for totes and shopping bags. But the difference between calico and canvas, though, is in the weight of the thread and the density of the weave.

Calico is light, loosely woven cotton fabric. It is used in fashion for making test garments before moving onto the more expensive material. Calico’s raw look and light weight make it a popular fabric for carry bags and homewares.

Canvas, on the other hand, is heavier than calico and more tightly woven. A thicker and tighter weave makes canvas more durable and structured. Canvas products include backpacks and tote bags, sneakers, aprons, workwear and upholstery. Outside, waterproofed canvas is seen in tents, sails and tarpaulins.

You can read about cotton bags in our article, here.

Brushed cotton is just as its name describes. Once the cotton is woven it is brushed on one or both sides as a finishing touch. Brushing gives the fabric a soft and sometimes fluffy texture that works as an insulator. Brushed cotton is perfect, then, for bedding, pyjamas and soft tees. Flannel, for example, is a medium weight cotton brushed on both sides.

Twill refers to the way the cotton is woven rather than finished. Twill is a sturdy and durable weave, mostly seen in chinos and denim, but it can be used in many ways. Depending on the weight of the thread, a twill’s signature diagonal ribbing can be obvious or subtle.

Cotton chambray is often paired with denim in fashion because they’re both most commonly blue. Chambray differs from denim, though, by its weight and weave. It is plain woven with thin white and blue yarn. This makes the multi-coloured fabric light and crisp.

Denim is made in a twill weave with medium to heavy weight yarn. Fashion denim is often woven with elastane to make it more wearable, but this also reduces its durability.

Herringbone and Poplin are common terms seen in cotton dress shirts and uniform apparel. Poplin is another plain weave fabric. What sets it apart is its ultrafine horizontal ribbing that gives the fabric a sheen. Suit trousers can be poplin when made from a medium weight yarn.

Herringbone is a pattern made by alternating the direction of a twill weave throughout the fabric. Herringbone fabric can vary from light to heavy. Light herringbone is found in dress shirts, while medium to heavy herringbone is used for items from jackets and heavy coats to upholstery.

Jersey is made from cotton that has been knitted rather than woven. This makes it soft to touch and gives the fabric more stretch. Cotton hoodies and tracksuits are made from jersey cotton with a brushed fleece on one side.

A very descriptive name, rib knit cotton is a knitted fabric where the loops appear alternating on the front and back of the fabric, giving it a ribbed look. The ribs make the fabric super stretchy without the use of elastane or Lycra (though many still use them for stretch throughout the garment). Hoodies and jumpers will have rib knitted sleeve cuffs and waistbands. Fitted tops and dresses will be rib knitted throughout.